Matthew Humphrey
Fajardo, PR
Boat Name: Way Gone
Model/Year: 1980
Hull No.
Hailing Port: |
 03/18/2008 6:22 PM Pacific Time
I have a 1980 Catalina 25. I am redoing the interior as best as I can on a budget.
For the Walls/Floor (Gelcoat?), I was wondering if it is possible to paint this. Really, i'd like to change the color. I have cleaned it thoroughly, but I think a paint job would really make it sharp. Also, i'm not too fond of the original color.
Also, I removed all of the interior teak woodwork that I was able, and would like some suggestions on the best way to re-finish this. Most of it is in pretty good shape, but there are a lot of stains, gunk and just wear. I have no idea what was used on it previously, since i just obtained the boat.
Thanks |
Stan Hullett
Littleton CO
Boat Name: Hanky Panky
Model/Year: 1979 C-25
Hull No.
Hailing Port: Chatfield State Park |
03/18/2008 8:20 PM Pacific Time
Matt,
I would suggest not paining the interior, the gelcoat is so durable it would be hard to equal that. If you have it cleaned try Penetrol, it will restore it to near new condition with a nice shine that renews the color, should last a long time inside. It's cheap $7 a quart at hardware stores paint departments, try a small area, see if you like the results, painting the interior would be a major project in my eyes.
The teak can be cleaned and brightened with products from West or Brightstar, to the color of oak. Sand smooth, then its your choice, Oil, Cetol, or Varnish, the newer Catalina boats I have seen are now using Varnish, looks wonderful and inside should last forever. My 2 cents worth.
Stan |
Matthew Humphrey
Fajardo, PR
Boat Name: Way Gone
Model/Year: 1980
Hull No.
Hailing Port: |
03/19/2008 8:56 AM Pacific Time
Stan,
Thank you very much for your reply.
The concensus I am getting is to not paint the interior for the reasons you state. Really, most of my desire to repaint is personal preference because I'm not crazy about the color of the gelcoat. Mostly, it is just very dirty in there with rust stains and other soils. I will try some of the chemicals/suggestions, and probably have to live with those results. There are a few spots where there is a deep scratch or a chip. What can be used to spot-fix these areas?
As for the Teak inside, does it matter what was used on the teak before by previous owners? I have no idea what they may have done in the past. (Judging by other things on the boat, it could be anything). I don't know too much about Teak/Wood, so probably wouldn't be able to identify what is on the teak now. I think i will try to find someone to take a look. But does it matter what was used in the past? or can I just sand and oil? Also, is the correct order to Clean then Sand then Oil/Varnish/Cetol?
Thanks again for your time
Matt |
Peter
South Daytona, Florida
Boat Name: (Working On A Name)
Model/Year: C-22, 1974
Hull No. 2679
Hailing Port: South Daytona, Florida |
03/19/2008 10:27 AM Pacific Time
Stan, I have used the "Magic Eraser" from Mr. Clean. It works very well. As you use it, just keep rinsing it. I've used it down to where there was almost nothing left of the sponge and it was still effective. I highly recommend it before you use other chemicals.
Peter |
Kip C
Cincinnati, Ohio
Boat Name: Knot Work / Quietude
Model/Year: '86 Cat 22 / '90 Cat 25
Hull No. 13358 / 6021
Hailing Port: Brookville Lake, Indiana |
03/19/2008 1:17 PM Pacific Time
Matthew,
Catalina Direct is great for parts and such. But check out the Catalina 25/250 Capri 25 Association web site also. Its specific to your boat.
http://www.catalina-capri-25s.org/forum/
Good Luck restoring your Catalina 25,
Kip |
Stan Hullett
Littleton CO
Boat Name: Hanky Panky
Model/Year: 1979 C-25
Hull No.
Hailing Port: Chatfield State Park |
03/19/2008 5:16 PM Pacific Time
Matt,
Try the teak cleaner first, if you don't get down to raw bare wood, it has something else for a finish. If this is the case your left with paint stripper, this would require an empty boat so it can be rinsed of properly. Then use the bleach on the bare wood to lighten it. Then finish with what you wish. Catalna Direct sells a color matched gel coat kit for the chips and scrathes. This will require sanding and polishing after the fact, do these before the wood is finished.
Stan |
Matthew Humphrey
Fajardo, PR
Boat Name: Way Gone
Model/Year: 1980
Hull No.
Hailing Port: |
04/05/2008 6:03 AM Pacific Time
Finally getting around to working on this...
I took a small piece and tried a 2-step Teak Cleaner and Brightener from T-Jett (Teak Wonder). Someone said it does a great job. On 90% of the piece, it got right down to the bare wood, and really did a nice job. But there are a few random spots that I can't seem to get out, even after 2 applications. I don't know if they are spills, or what they are. Is there anything else I can safely us on the teak to spot clean those areas? The Cleaner/Brightener seems to do a great job everywhere else.
Thanks
Matt |
Stan Hullett
Littleton CO
Boat Name: Hanky Panky
Model/Year: 1979 C-25
Hull No.
Hailing Port: Chatfield State Park |
04/05/2008 7:14 PM Pacific Time
Matt, If it's not too deep try a light sanding, or if it's not too dark it will blend with the new finish, test a small area first.
Stan |
Jon
ronkonkoma NY
Boat Name: Shamus 2
Model/Year: 1986
Hull No.
Hailing Port: |
09/22/2008 11:36 AM Pacific Time
Hi, Im new at boating and I just purchased a 1986 Catalina 25 and was wondering if it would be ok to take a power/pressure washer to the inside/cabin floor. Are there any drains or pumps that would help drain the water if I did? I know I have a cockpit pump for water up there. |
Chip Ford
Marblehead, MA
Boat Name: Chip Ahoy
Model/Year: 1974-Swing Keel
Hull No. CTY032820374
Hailing Port: Marblehead, Mass. |
09/24/2008 9:09 PM Pacific Time
When I cleaned the cabin interior of Chip Ahoy last spring, I tried using Easy Dab. My only complaint was that once I started I had to keep going, it made such a fantastic difference! See:
http://chipford.com/chip_ahoy_49.htm
Tips on refinishing the teak trim learned on Chip Ahoy can be found at:
http://chipford.com/teak_trim_2008.htm
Or in the March issue of MainBrace, the C22NSA bimonthly magazine of which I am its technical editor.
Chip Ford -- |
Lynn Buchanan
Nevada City, CA
Boat Name: SAILYNN
Model/Year: SWING 1984
Hull No. 11994
Hailing Port: SCOTTS FLAT LAKE, CA |
09/27/2008 12:00 AM Pacific Time
If you use bleach on the wood, use a neutralizer like they use in developing photos in dark rooms, then flush with water before sealing again. sometimes the dark spots on wood are just wood variations and can't be sanded or bleached out. i've found in detailing boats a lot of the stains on the interior fiberglass comes from a poor job of trying to re-stain the wood while it's still attached to the fiberglass. my husband uses gloves and acetone to remove it. very stinky and bad for the lungs so be sure to use ventilation and follow all the safety precautions. i called catalina yachts and they told me the early boats were stained with watco which is available in hardware stores. i bought some and it worked fine. much cheaper than cetol. |
Larry
Greenville, SC
Boat Name: Kemo Sabe
Model/Year: C-22 , 1973
Hull No. 2229
Hailing Port: www.keoweesailingclub.com |
09/27/2008 5:06 PM Pacific Time
Hey Matthew,
Have you tried using any of the Scotchbrite pads like you find in Grocery stores? You know, like the kind the wife uses on pots and pans? I know factually that many body shops use them on hard to remove stains. Try some of them on the inteior stains of which you speak, or try Chlorox!
I'd have to agree that painting the interior would be a last resort, but I have heard of folks painting their interiors with latex. I wouldn't. Just remember, once you paint it, you've made yourself another maintenance factor.
You may want to try and get used to the stains. :))
Larry |
