Bob Ferguson
Storm Lake, IA
Boat Name:
Model/Year: 1985 C-22 swing keel
Hull No.
Hailing Port: Storm Lake, IA |
 03/21/2008 10:01 AM Pacific Time
When I removed the thru-deck fitting near the base of the mast to see why my anchor light wouldn't work, the answer was pretty obvious...there are no wires attached to the back side of the connector. I've used a fish tape to pretty thoroughly explore the cavity in the deck that the wires are supposed to run through, but no luck. Does anyone have a suggestion about how I could: a) find the wires that must be there somewhere (why else would the connector have been installed by a PO?), or b) run new wires through the cabin in a way that wouldn't be too ugly or in the way?
Thanks
Bob Ferguson
Storm Lake, IA |
R. C. Luiken
Milford, DE
Boat Name: Ricochet
Model/Year: C-22 Swing Keel/1986
Hull No. 13560
Hailing Port: Milford, DE/St. Michaels, MD |
03/22/2008 5:39 AM Pacific Time
I don't know if you have the wooden compression post or the tube like mine. The tube is easy, because the lines can run through the tube. If you have the wood post, you might consider a privacy curtain for the Porta-Potti and run the wires along the cabin tob forward of the track for the curtain. My boat has what is called "Airstream" track in which plastic fittings attached to the curtain ride. These tracks are available at RV supply places. The track is about 1/4" in height and 1/2" in width. |
Bob Ferguson
Storm Lake, IA
Boat Name:
Model/Year: 1985 C-22 swing keel
Hull No.
Hailing Port: Storm Lake, IA |
03/22/2008 10:30 AM Pacific Time
The compression post is wood, so that's no help, I'm afraid. Also, the Porta Poti curtain idea would be great...if I had a Porta Poti on board. We sail on a small lake where we're never more than half an hour from home, so haven't needed to bother with one, yet. Though, as the years advance, it may be in my future! ;-) |
Ken Palmer
Franklin, TN.
Boat Name: "Last Penny"
Model/Year: 1981
Hull No. 10475
Hailing Port: PPYC |
03/22/2008 11:57 AM Pacific Time
Due to the fact of adding a Windex light and a foredeck light. I had to run a new wire for mine. I ran the wire through the keel trough drilled a 1/2" hole on the forward side of the liner then ran the wire up the compression post. I drilled a hole through the cabin top to let the wire exit under the five pin connector. I removed some of the plywood and replaced it with epoxy much like you would on your stay eye bolts.
I don't think you will find any way of running any wires from that cavity back to the electrical panel, the wires were sealed during lay up when the boat was made. I cut the wire in mine back as far as I could then filled the cavity. |
Howard Friedman
Pisgah Forest, NC
Boat Name: Forspacious Seas
Model/Year: Wing - 1989
Hull No. 14907
Hailing Port: Lake Keowee-Seneca, SC |
03/22/2008 6:42 PM Pacific Time
You might try mounting a double pole toggle switch in the cabin near the mast electrical thru-hull connector. The hot wire would go to the common side of the switch and your steaming light wire would hook up to one pole and your anchor light to the other.(I'm assuming that the anchor light wiring is already in the mast). One pole of the switch would go to 2 pins on the connector and the other pole to the other 2 pins. When the steaming light circuit was energized from your fuse panel, flipping the toggle one way would give you steaming lights and the other way, anchor lights. The only real problem would be to mount the switch unobtrusively. I've never seen or heard of anyone doing this but I think it might be an easy solution to your problem. |
Bob Ferguson
Storm Lake, IA
Boat Name:
Model/Year: 1985 C-22 swing keel
Hull No.
Hailing Port: Storm Lake, IA |
03/22/2008 8:59 PM Pacific Time
My thanks for your responses. The toggle switch is a creative solution, as is running the wire up the back of the compression post. Ken, I have a question...where did you cut the 1/2" hole? I'm trying to visualize the interior and getting lost.
I'll be getting the boat out of storage soon...if the ice ever goes out of the lake...and will have to do some crawling around to investigate which approach works best for my application.
Thanks again. |
Craig Burlette
St Louis MO
Boat Name: Toujours ete'
Model/Year: C22 / 1974
Hull No.
Hailing Port: Lake Saint Louis MO |
03/23/2008 9:33 AM Pacific Time
I had the same issue with my 1974 C22 Toujours ete'. I tried just about every concievable way to route new wires through the origonal cavity. I found that I could go as far down as the turn in the cabin top before the cavity made a turn of some sort and I hit a dead end. So I drilled a 1/2 inch hole into the liner in the cabin and pulled my wires through there. I used some white plastic wire wrap and a couple of screw in cable ties to keep the wire bundle close to the liner and brought the wire bundle around to the deck flange where all of the other wires are routed. It's fairly unobtrusive and I feel comfortable in the knowledge that I can change or repair the wireing to the mast with relative ease in the future. Another added benefit is that any water that manages to find it's way past the deck fitting just follows the wires out the deck to a small drip loop that naturally forms at the deck flange.
Craig |
Stephen Morris
Wylie, Texas
Boat Name: no name
Model/Year: Catalina 22, 1982
Hull No.
Hailing Port: |
04/12/2011 3:09 PM Pacific Time
If I have the 2 pin deck connector, and want to replace with the 4 pin so I may add an anchor, steaming/deck light. Do I need to pull more wire or can I use the what's there & splice between the 3 hot pin's? |
Pat Lindsay
Huntsville, AL
Boat Name: Stargazer
Model/Year: 1983
Hull No. 11735
Hailing Port: Lake Guntersville, Al |
04/17/2011 10:05 AM Pacific Time
Stephen,
If the 2-pin fitting you have is the one to port of the mast, that's the one with wiring that runs through the layup back to the switch-panel. Since there is no way of troubleshooting or running new wire through the layup, I would not use this site to add new wiring for the 4-pin connector. And even if you do, you can't just splice the hot wires together. If you do, then all the lights on that circuit will draw current (ie. light up) when you flip the switch.
Rather, you will need to run separate hot wires for each light on the mast. each will have it's own pin on the connector, and each will be wired separately to your switch panel. The only common wire will be the ground wire. You will splice together the ground wires from the anchor light, the steaming light, and the deck light, thus giving you one ground wire to the 4th pin on the connector, and one ground wire back to bus bar that connects all the grounds in the boat's dc system to the battery.
You can either buy wire and make your own wiring harness or buy the kit from CD. Buying a spool and making your own harness is cheaper.
I'm currently replacing the wiring to the anchor light on my '83 C22. I plan to use the 4-pin connector to the spot forward of the mast, where I currently have a 3-pin connector for the steaming and deck lights. I will remove the 2-pin anchor-light connector to port of the mast and fill the hole with epoxy.
|
Pat Lindsay
Huntsville, AL
Boat Name: Stargazer
Model/Year: 1983
Hull No. 11735
Hailing Port: Lake Guntersville, Al |
04/17/2011 10:14 AM Pacific Time
Stephen,
If you don't want to drill a new hole in your deck, consider the method that Craig Burlette describes in his 03/23/08 post. Use the existing site, drill through the liner and run all 4 wires through the liner and back to the panel and battery. |
