Roy Moore
Fair Oaks, CA
Boat Name: Felice
Model/Year: c-22 1972
Hull No. 1780
Hailing Port: Folsom Lake |
 03/27/2008 7:01 AM Pacific Time
Does anyone know how to remove the lower unit on an '86 6 hp Evinrude so I can replace the water pump impeller? My efforts so far hang up on the transmission shifter rod, and I haven't found any arrangement for separating the rod. |
David Torrisi
Santa Clara, CA
Boat Name: Dumbo
Model/Year: 1975 C-22
Hull No. 4330
Hailing Port: Santa Clara |
03/27/2008 12:27 PM Pacific Time
Ray,
I have the repair manual at home. I'll try to scan the pertinent pages. Should I post the pdf somewhere or email to you?
David |
Boat Name:
Model/Year:
Hull No.
Hailing Port: |
03/28/2008 5:46 AM Pacific Time
There is usually a black rubber "plug" on the side of the shaft housing about halfway down to the prop. Remove that plug with a small screwdriver and look inside the hole. You may have to move the shifter handle back and forth, but you should see a clamp-like connector inside with two small bolts next to each other. Remove either of these bolts with a socket and it should come apart. Putting it back together again is the REAL challenge. Good luck and let us know your progress.
|
Roy Moore
Fair Oaks, CA
Boat Name: Felice
Model/Year: c-22 1972
Hull No. 1780
Hailing Port: Folsom Lake |
03/28/2008 7:15 AM Pacific Time
Dave, you have a rare and precious book!! Johnson/Evinrude is welling to sell me one --for $120. If practical, would you scan to this forum for all us Evinrude owners? If that's too hard, you can email the appropriate pages to [email protected] with at least the word Evinrude in the title and I'll arrange to add it, and get the impeller installed. :)
My search for the rubber plug turned up nothing on this particular motor. |
paul osborne
Lima NY
Boat Name: Emy Lyn II
Model/Year: 1984
Hull No.
Hailing Port: Rochester |
03/28/2008 10:40 AM Pacific Time
The book is available at most public librarys. if you can't get it there I also will be happy to copy what you need . Mine is an excelent copy . let me know. I am not at home right now or I would lok it up for you .
paul. [email protected] |
Stan Hullett
Littleton CO
Boat Name: Hanky Panky
Model/Year: 1979 C-25
Hull No.
Hailing Port: Chatfield State Park |
03/28/2008 11:37 AM Pacific Time
Ray,
On some engine I have worked on if you remove the bolts holding on the lower unit, they go in from the bottom. You can then sperate the two far enough to get at the screws on the connector that was mentioned, this joins the shifter rod. The power shaft is splined and will slide apart. The impeller is around the power shaft under a small cover in the lower section, it will all come clear once you see it all.
Stan |
Howard Friedman
Pisgah Forest, NC
Boat Name: Forspacious Seas
Model/Year: Wing - 1989
Hull No. 14907
Hailing Port: Lake Keowee-Seneca, SC |
03/29/2008 12:21 PM Pacific Time
I have a late 70's motor and Stan's description is how you get to the shift connector. It is a good idea to check the lower unit seals to make sure they won't leak water into the housing and replace the water pump seal with the new water pump while your at it. There is a special tool that looks like a bicycle pump attached to a rubber hose with a threaded fitting on the end that screws into the oil fill hole. You pump pressure up to about 15 psi(make sure all the oil is out) and check the gauge to see if it holds pressure with no leak over time. I believe any marine engine shop would do this check for a nominal fee or maybe you could rig something up or borrow the tool. Leaks usually occur at the prop shaft seal but can also occur a t the water pump seal if installed incorrectly. There is no gasket between the lower unit flanges. You use a gasket sealer called "Sealer 1000" or whatever equivalent might be in use now. On an older motor, the lower unit flange may become pitted or warped. You can restore it by putting 180 grit wet/dri sand paper on a flat metal plate and rubbing the flange over it in a circular motion until it becomes evenly shiny. Use a little oil on the paper. Keep the flange flat against the plate and use an even pressure. |
David Torrisi
Santa Clara, CA
Boat Name: Dumbo
Model/Year: 1975 C-22
Hull No. 4330
Hailing Port: Santa Clara |
03/29/2008 8:02 PM Pacific Time
Ray,
I emailed you the pdf on Friday. The others who have contributed here are right on track with the book, though.
David |
Howard Friedman
Pisgah Forest, NC
Boat Name: Forspacious Seas
Model/Year: Wing - 1989
Hull No. 14907
Hailing Port: Lake Keowee-Seneca, SC |
03/30/2008 7:59 AM Pacific Time
One other point-with an engine this old, fasteners can become very corroded. Steel and aluminum tend to fuse over time. Use lots of penetrating oil and soak over night before attempting to loosen anything. Don't force or bolts will sheer off. Sometimes it requires heating with a torch but make sure there are no rubber or plastic parts nearby. Heat very hot and then immediately quench with cold water. This usually tends to break the corrosion between dissimilar metals. Then use more penetrating oil and slowly work out the fastener. |
Stan Hullett
Littleton CO
Boat Name: Hanky Panky
Model/Year: 1979 C-25
Hull No.
Hailing Port: Chatfield State Park |
03/30/2008 8:31 AM Pacific Time
Howard, Very good point, a broken fastener can ruin your day, along the same line some may not be aware of Heli-Coil's. An old fastener can be drilled out and a oversized hole tapped for the installation of a Heli-Coil, giving you new steel threads in Alum. most hardware's, stock these jewels.
Stan |
Dick Reynolds
Lebanon, Oregon
Boat Name: Catnip
Model/Year: Swing Keel / 1974
Hull No. 4570
Hailing Port: Newport, Oregon |
03/31/2008 5:55 PM Pacific Time
I've learned over the years to use an impact screwdriver on any screw mounted in aluminum. Try it you'll love it. |
Roy Moore
Fair Oaks, CA
Boat Name: Felice
Model/Year: c-22 1972
Hull No. 1780
Hailing Port: Folsom Lake |
10/22/2008 10:53 AM Pacific Time
Heart-felt thanks to all who responded to my posting. I had an outboard service professional look at my motor. It turned out to be a very rare extra-long shaft model and the ONLY way to remove the lower end was to take the top end apart.
I replaced this motor with a Tohatsu 6hp motor (model MFS 6BS) with battery charging--a wonderful motor, but I have to be careful of the surprisingly fragile fuel line. |
