Philip White
Beach City, OH
Boat Name: Eucharistos
Model/Year: C22/1987
Hull No. CTYH4109B787
Hailing Port: Atwood Lake |
 04/27/2008 5:46 PM Pacific Time
I wanted to see if anyone has a gray non-skid deck paint (I believe its original) on the deck of an '87? I am trying to repair some cracks/dings and wanted to use a nonskid paint that closely matches the original. I wanted to see if anyone had found a currently-available paint that matches? thanks |
R. C. Luiken
Milford, DE
Boat Name: Ricochet
Model/Year: C-22 Swing Keel/1986
Hull No. 13560
Hailing Port: Milford, DE/St. Michaels, MD |
04/28/2008 4:45 AM Pacific Time
Philip; I do not believe that non-skid paint is original. My '86 doesn't have it. Newer boats I have seen don't have it either. My non-skid is a pattern which was moulded in the lay-up of the hull.
If you do have to make repairs, there are a number of companies that make skid resistant coatings. Inter-lux is one of them. The biggest problem is going to be color matching. One thing you can do is buy enough paint to cover your deck plus some to make the repairs you need. After the repairs are complete then paint over all of your non-skid areas. You will lose some of the texture, but the color will be consistent throughout. |
Al Gearing
Burleson, Texas
Boat Name: Torch of Freedom
Model/Year: C-22/'76
Hull No. 6448
Hailing Port: Arlington YC |
04/28/2008 5:38 AM Pacific Time
R.C. is right, the original non-skid in moulded into the deck. You may try a cosrse brick or cement stepping stone or something like that to make a similar pattern in the almost setup epoxy or what ever you use for the repair. It seems to me I heard of something that was suppose to do just that, can't remember where. But the idea is to form a rough rather than smooth surface. To get the stiple effect when painting walls, I have used a very coarse roller, not the greatest but maybe you can think of and try something on a sample before doing your deck. For what it's worth,
Al Ge |
Philip White
Beach City, OH
Boat Name: Eucharistos
Model/Year: C22/1987
Hull No. CTYH4109B787
Hailing Port: Atwood Lake |
04/28/2008 6:23 PM Pacific Time
thanks for the information, I appreciate your time. The deck on our C-22 also has the textured surface that you mentioned, and I guess the gray paint must have been applied later. I will check with Inter-lux. Thanks for the advice and the information.
Philip |
Bilbo
Youngstown, Ohio
Boat Name: Sea Dog
Model/Year: Catalina 22 1987
Hull No. 13971
Hailing Port: Andover, Ohio |
04/28/2008 8:00 PM Pacific Time
Hi Philip.
I believe that our boats are related. My 13971 (1987) was bought from Dorman at Atwood and he bought it from a Dr. Lee.
I believe that the non-skid on our boats is as mentioned. It's molded into the fiberglass in the design of small low pyramids. If I had to repaint it, I'd probably just use a a good brand of Non-Skid like Interlux or Petit. That way you have some color options. I probably wouldn't try to remove the little bumps. I'd just sand it down to scuff up the surface and give the new paint something to hold onto. Mask it off and paint. |
Willard Morton
Montgomery, TX
Boat Name:
Model/Year: Catalina 22/1988
Hull No. CTYH4531K788
Hailing Port: Lake Conroe, TX |
05/04/2008 9:15 PM Pacific Time
I have a 1988 with a grey deck that looks like it is original. What method is used to paint this area if needed? If it is newly painted will that help to protect against spider residue? Or at least make it possible to clean it up rather than leaving a stain that requires clorox, rubbing, etc.?
Thanks
Willard |
Lynn Buchanan
Nevada City, CA
Boat Name: SAILYNN
Model/Year: SWING 1984
Hull No. 11994
Hailing Port: SCOTTS FLAT LAKE, CA |
05/07/2008 2:01 PM Pacific Time
Gray was a choice of deck color in the late 87. Like stated earlier it was part of the construction process. It would be very difficult to match into an area. Interlux is a good choice. I used it in the blue color and it leaves a non-slip feel but you can still see the stiple effect or the original mold. I remember several years ago someone was selling a "stamp" of the deck to reproduce the effect on flat spots that had been repaired. |
Pat Lindsay
Huntsville, AL
Boat Name: Stargazer
Model/Year: 1983
Hull No. 11735
Hailing Port: Lake Guntersville, Al |
05/12/2008 6:45 AM Pacific Time
I want to change my non-skid color from the light beige (off white?) that was factory applied on my '83 C22 to light gray. I bought some gray non-skid from West Marine (their version of Interlux non-skid). The Interlux and West Marine gray look identical, are formulated the same, etc. But they both look a little darker than I want. They expert at West Marine said I could go to Lowe's/Home Depot to cut the gray with their dye to lighten the color.However, they both said that too much white added might cause the non-skid to not dry completely. (1) Has anyone had experience with this? (2) Has anyone used the manufacturer's product as is and found it not to be too dark? My concern is that I don't want the gray to be so dark as to make it a heat magnet. (3) Will a quart of paint be enough?
Pat |
Doug Wakeley
Kitty Hawk, NC
Boat Name: Cheap Thrills
Model/Year: C22 1987
Hull No. 13899
Hailing Port: Kitty Hawk, NC |
05/15/2008 5:27 PM Pacific Time
We had a meat tenderizer hammer that had a pattern that resembled the molded in pattern of the deck, when I did a repair. |
Lynn Buchanan
Nevada City, CA
Boat Name: SAILYNN
Model/Year: SWING 1984
Hull No. 11994
Hailing Port: SCOTTS FLAT LAKE, CA |
05/25/2008 9:44 PM Pacific Time
Pat, a quart of the Interlux was enough for my 73 C22 in Squall Blue. Your color will be brighter, not necessarily darker due to the newness. After two years I have noticed my blue has faded a little but still looks quite good and has held up well. I still have more in the can, but haven't used it yet. At first I could feel the difference slightly in the new blue vs. the old blue. But as many have advised spending long hot days staring at a totally white or light color boat gets very tiring. I have several C22's and my favorite color was the light beige. |
