Kit includes track, car, stainless steel risers, control blocks with a 5:1 purchase and cleats. The risers eliminate the original wood mounting blocks providing a less obstructed view forward. Since the plane of the mounting stanchion lies fore and aft, you can look above, below, or past without the traveler or teak block being in your line of sight. If you prefer using the original mounting holes (in exchange for a bit less visibility forward), click on our other kit pictured below under "May we also suggest". For your reference, the risers are 9" high from deck to mounting surface if the the two surfaces are held parallel.
Recirculating ball bearings support the load on the traveler car without binding. This new car is equipped with three mainsheet block shackles. You may use the center shackle only if you are reusing your old triple mainsheet block. If you are also upgrading the blocks, use the three shackles to use three single blocks instead for less chafe. Traveler car bearings:
• Hi load Torlon bearings (take the load from the mainsheet): 240
• Delrin bearings (support an unloaded car during a jibe): 240
Control lines and cleats provide mechanical advantage to bring the car to weather. Even under high mainsheet loads, one can trim the traveler car with ease. Backing plates shown are included.
If boat is equipped with a dodger: Order the traveler control dodger retrofit kit below.
The most common question asked about installation is "What do I do with the old mounting holes?" I recommend the installation of dummy fasteners to fill the old holes. On deck they will look like they are securing something below. From inside they will look like they are securing something on deck. No one but you will ever notice them. If you attempt to repair the holes and match the non-skid pattern the look will shout "Repair!" After removing the teak blocks from the deck, relieve the holes with a countersink bit so flat head machine screws can be inserted flush with the deck.