Various articles covering frequently asked questions, informative bits of information, and even a spot of humor.
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Marine grade electrical 10 gauge black primary wire. Sold by the foot.
Our marine grade wire is tinned along it's entire length. Tinned wire prevents corrosion from creeping up and throughout the wire, Corrosion compromises the ability of the wire to carry the load without a major voltage drop.
You provide the information we need to cut this wire off the reel. Once you order it we are going to cut it just for you. We can’t splice it back on the reel, so we never want to see it again, and no one else wants it either. Be careful and order it correctly the first time because the order can't be canceled, returned, or magically changed into something different!
The factory did not maintain strict wire color coding. Color codes used were not the same across all models. Start with the diagrams in your owners manual but expect surprises. There is no limit to what the commissioning dealer and a series of owners may have done.
Most devices are simple 12 VDC with a positive wire (usually red) and a ground wire (usually black). Complex kits usually have detailed instructions and proper connectors. If it is something like a VHF radio or charger / inverter, refer to the original installation manual or find it online. You’ll find wiring diagrams online with many products and in Tech Articles.
No. In boats built in the 80's or earlier, wiring was usually bonded in place during construction. Newer boats often have PVC pipe "chases" bonded below the cabin liner for running behind or below the stove, for example. Except where there is an obvious chase, new wires must be run externally. Hide them bundled with existing wires up under the trim at the hull/deck joint or cover them for a seamanlike installation.
Every model used a different color code. Some changed over time. At times, management discovered employees were not using the specified colors. Colors changed when outside mast vendors supplied the mast wiring. Furling masts were often different than non furling masts. Start with your Owner’s Manual but expect surprises. Confirm what you have by using an inexpensive Volt Ohm Meter.
Our harness assumes three mast mounted lights. If you don’t have all three lights one or two of the conductors will not be used until you upgrade.
Positive leads are: Red, Anchor Light; white, Steaming Light (or Bow Light on some switch panels); green, Deck Light.
Black is the common ground that provides negative for all three lights.
You will need a 2 or 4 prong plug depending on the number of bulbs. Early boats didn’t have standard mast navigation lights. The plug must have one ground pin plus one additional pin for each bulb on the mast. Extra unused pins are OK. Plastic and metal plugs have different diameters and fastener hole patterns so replacing like for like will be easiest.
Marine grade electrical 10 gauge black primary wire. Sold by the foot.
Our marine grade wire is tinned along it's entire length. Tinned wire prevents corrosion from creeping up and throughout the wire, Corrosion compromises the ability of the wire to carry the load without a major voltage drop.
You provide the information we need to cut this wire off the reel. Once you order it we are going to cut it just for you. We can’t splice it back on the reel, so we never want to see it again, and no one else wants it either. Be careful and order it correctly the first time because the order can't be canceled, returned, or magically changed into something different!
The factory did not maintain strict wire color coding. Color codes used were not the same across all models. Start with the diagrams in your owners manual but expect surprises. There is no limit to what the commissioning dealer and a series of owners may have done.
Most devices are simple 12 VDC with a positive wire (usually red) and a ground wire (usually black). Complex kits usually have detailed instructions and proper connectors. If it is something like a VHF radio or charger / inverter, refer to the original installation manual or find it online. You’ll find wiring diagrams online with many products and in Tech Articles.
No. In boats built in the 80's or earlier, wiring was usually bonded in place during construction. Newer boats often have PVC pipe "chases" bonded below the cabin liner for running behind or below the stove, for example. Except where there is an obvious chase, new wires must be run externally. Hide them bundled with existing wires up under the trim at the hull/deck joint or cover them for a seamanlike installation.
Every model used a different color code. Some changed over time. At times, management discovered employees were not using the specified colors. Colors changed when outside mast vendors supplied the mast wiring. Furling masts were often different than non furling masts. Start with your Owner’s Manual but expect surprises. Confirm what you have by using an inexpensive Volt Ohm Meter.
Our harness assumes three mast mounted lights. If you don’t have all three lights one or two of the conductors will not be used until you upgrade.
Positive leads are: Red, Anchor Light; white, Steaming Light (or Bow Light on some switch panels); green, Deck Light.
Black is the common ground that provides negative for all three lights.
You will need a 2 or 4 prong plug depending on the number of bulbs. Early boats didn’t have standard mast navigation lights. The plug must have one ground pin plus one additional pin for each bulb on the mast. Extra unused pins are OK. Plastic and metal plugs have different diameters and fastener hole patterns so replacing like for like will be easiest.
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