The factory did not maintain strict wire color coding. Color codes used were not the same across all models. Start with the diagrams in your owners manual but expect surprises. There is no limit to what the commissioning dealer and a series of owners may have done.

Most devices are simple 12 VDC with a positive wire (usually red) and a ground wire (usually black). Complex kits usually have detailed instructions and proper connectors. If it is something like a VHF radio or charger / inverter, refer to the original installation manual or find it online. You’ll find wiring diagrams online with many products and in Tech Articles.

No. In boats built in the 80's or earlier, wiring was usually bonded in place during construction. Newer boats often have PVC pipe "chases" bonded below the cabin liner for running behind or below the stove, for example. Except where there is an obvious chase, new wires must be run externally. Hide them bundled with existing wires up under the trim at the hull/deck joint or cover them for a seamanlike installation.

Check the Specifications tab to be sure it is right for your boat. Matching style or year range may avoid drilling new holes. You may need special brackets when adding a new fixture.

Aqua Signal discontinued their marine lighting in 2022. Old inventory has been exhausted long ago. You will have to use a substitute, probably Hella that is also available on our site, typically found at the bottom of the page under "May We Also Suggest". Fixtures are cross compatable but the mounting holes are different. You can typically use the old brackets by drilling new holes in the bracket.

They exist but are very expensive. Coast Guard regulations require substantial testing to be certified which comes at a high cost. Also, the manufactures didn’t reference earlier designs when creating the next generation LED fixtures, therefore mounting holes are not the same. We offer a few newer fixtures with LEDs, but primarily offer Coast Guard certified LED modules for upgrading the earlier fixtures. This is less expensive and doesn’t require drilling new holes.

Every model used a different color code. Some changed over time. At times, management discovered employees were not using the specified colors. Colors changed when outside mast vendors supplied the mast wiring. Furling masts were often different than non furling masts. Start with your Owner’s Manual but expect surprises. Confirm what you have by using an inexpensive Volt Ohm Meter. 

Our harness assumes three mast mounted lights. If you don’t have all three lights one or two of the conductors will not be used until you upgrade.

Positive leads are: Red, Anchor Light; white, Steaming Light (or Bow Light on some switch panels); green, Deck Light.

Black is the common ground that provides negative for all three lights.

You will need a 2 or 4 prong plug depending on the number of bulbs. Early boats didn’t have standard mast navigation lights. The plug must have one ground pin plus one additional pin for each bulb on the mast. Extra unused pins are OK. Plastic and metal plugs have different diameters and fastener hole patterns so replacing like for like will be easiest. 

They are very small brass screws that typically need a tiny phillips screwdriver as is commonly found in a jewlers set used for eyeglasses.

No, unfortunately all of these plugs are imported and the screws are not available separately. If you shear them off your only solution is to purchase a new plug. 

Spreader lights were never standard or optional equipment. Yours were added by a prior owner. Deck lights mounted on the front of the mast are better. Standing in the shadow of the mast, the skipper’s night vision is protected. Since spreader lights are in the skipper’s direct line-of-sight they ruin her night vision.