Aaron M Benham
33a Loomis Hights
Boat Name: Tidely-Idley: The never ending project
Model/Year: 1978 C22
Hull No. 8070
Hailing Port: |
 11/27/2005 6:59 PM Pacific Time
Has anyone used any of the various products available for the reinforcment of rotted/delaminated plywood hull stringers (ie GitRot, CPES ect) I finally have the wood completly dry and I am in the process of cutting out the wood under the battery box on the port side which is not salvagable. The rest of the wood on both sides seems to be ok. I have been researching CPES (Clear Penetrating Epoxy Sealer) to seal and repair the rest of the wood. Has anyone had any success with any of these types of products? |
Dick Reynolds
Lebanon, Oregon
Boat Name: Catnip
Model/Year: Swing Keel / 1974
Hull No. 4570
Hailing Port: Newport, Oregon |
11/28/2005 3:49 PM Pacific Time
I have used gitrot. I had a powerboat that had rotted around the fasteners. I refastened between the rotted ones and used Gitrot on the rotted ones. I shot it in with a syringe. again and again with long waits for it to set up. That was my only option as the boat wasn't worth replanking. I wish there had been another way but it did work. As it is very thin, you may have to build a dam on vertical surfaces to keep it from running out before it sets up. |
Peter Snyder - [email protected]
Ringgold, GA
Boat Name: Windabout
Model/Year: Catalina 22 / 1978
Hull No. 8329
Hailing Port: Privateer, Lake Chickamauga, TN |
11/29/2005 8:15 AM Pacific Time
I used Dr. Rot's CPES, layup and laminating resin and epoxy filler to repair a delaminating and partially rotted balsa core top deck of a 1960's vintage Snipe. It worked really well. Just allow the CPES plenty of time to air out before adding the resin and make sure you get the proper one to one mix on the resin. I found a really simple and cheap way to "inject" the CPES and resin into the holes I'd drilled about every three inches in a grid pattern within the rotted areas. WalMart sells plastic ketchup and mustard containers for about a dollar a pair, and they work great! You can even let the stuff set up inside them, then pop it loose and pull it out for a clean container again. Dr. Rot was very helpful and quick to answer e-mailed questions. His resin product also has some flexibility built into the resins - the competition's resins are evidently more brittle - which is good for a little "give" in a deck or hull. I'd recommend Dr. Rot to anyone.
Pete
Ringgold, GA
Sailing out of Privateer YC, Lake Chickamauga |
Mike Bracket
Clinton Twp, MI
Boat Name: Gunsmoke
Model/Year: 1979
Hull No. 9150
Hailing Port: Lake St Clair MI |
11/29/2005 7:15 PM Pacific Time
I repaired the plywood reinforcement under the battery box a couple years ago. The plywood is MAYBE 1/4 inch thick and covered with about 2 layers of thin glass and resin. I ground it out with a small disk grinder and then pulled out the rotten plywood. I smoothed it a bit with 80 grit sandpaper and then used 1/4 inch foam core material I purchased from a local fiberglass supplier. It is scored in 1" grid so it bends around curves quite well. Simply epoxied it down to the hull and then laminated a few layers of heavier cloth over the top. Pretty messy but when it all set up, I just ground it down and smoothed it out. A quick coat of paint and then reinstalled a fiberglass battery hold down bracket. Solid as a rock for four years now.
Good Luck
Mike |
Dick King
Melbourne, FL
Boat Name: Twilight Zone
Model/Year: Sport/2005
Hull No. 15546
Hailing Port: Melbourne, FL |
11/30/2005 9:35 AM Pacific Time
I would be interested to know how you fastened the hold- down brackets after you completed the restoration of the area.
When I did essentially the same job, I cleaned up the old stuff and then I bolted the brackets on two strips of teak I had left over from another project. I then placed the battery box in position and marked the position with a Sharpie. I removed the box and glued the strips down with 3M 5200. I let it cure for a couple of days and then put the battery box and battery back in between the two strips and strapped down the box. No problems since. |
Mike Bracket
Clinton Twp, MI
Boat Name: Gunsmoke
Model/Year: 1979
Hull No. 9150
Hailing Port: Lake St Clair MI |
12/01/2005 6:36 PM Pacific Time
Dick: I did essentially the same thing. I didnt use teak strips though. Just some cheap pine that I painted with epoxy to seal it. Then bolted the hold down bracket to it. The bracket sits up about 3/4" above the floor so any water that would get in there doesnt sit under the bracket and can be cleaned up.
Mike Bracket |
