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Author kell weldements



Boat Name:

Model/Year:

Hull No.

Hailing Port:
04/06/2004 5:26 PM Pacific Time

Anyone ever heard of replacing the keel weldements in a C22 befor. I can easily push a three inch nail up into the two port side weldements and fear the worst (being that the stainless plate is totally gone and will not hold the stress and weight of the keel upon installation).

This is a "new" 1976 that was moored in salt water for several years from what I was told, then left on blocks for at leaste three years with water inside the cabin befor I picked it up. The scupper drain hoses had been remved for some reason so that the cockpit drained intot the cabin.

Words of wisdom or inspiration would be great!



Boat Name:

Model/Year:

Hull No.

Hailing Port:
04/06/2004 5:27 PM Pacific Time

Sorry, Keel Weldements
Dick King
Melbourne, FL

Boat Name: Twilight Zone

Model/Year: Sport/2005

Hull No. 15546

Hailing Port: Melbourne, FL
04/06/2004 7:26 PM Pacific Time

Drop Skip Meisch a line. He has (or did have) an animation of how to do it. on his website. Skip Meisch [[email protected]]
Paul David
Melbourne Australia

Boat Name: Reflections

Model/Year: 1986

Hull No. 13369

Hailing Port: Melbourne Australia
04/06/2004 9:54 PM Pacific Time

Before you grind out from the bottom, I recall that Catalina may suggest going in from the top, from inside the cabin sole, and has engineering drawings to describe the process. I have an electronic copy, but this site doesn't permit an attachment to the message.



Boat Name:

Model/Year:

Hull No.

Hailing Port:
04/07/2004 7:50 AM Pacific Time

My email address for attachements, etc is [email protected] Thanks for all the help, I e-mailed Skip this AM. Sounds like this has happend befor (I figured it had). When I called the tech line ar CD they were unfamiliar with the situation.
Chad Vicknair
New Orleans, LA

Boat Name: Hope Floats

Model/Year: 1975

Hull No. CTYH66727M76L

Hailing Port: Lake Pontchartrain, New Orleans
04/08/2004 7:21 AM Pacific Time

Hi,
I have a 1975 Catalina 22 and my boat was also left neglected and filled with water. I had to replace one of the weldments for my keel hanger. Not impossible, just a little patience. I also had to remold alot of the glass around all four weldments using expoy due to deteriation from the water intrusion.
Going in from the top is the correct way to replace them. If you have not acquired the drawings for doing so yet I can try to scan them in and send them to you. I used a dremel tool to first cut and access into the liner and then a different bit to slowly remove enough glass to pop the weldment out. I also used the dremel to dig out and clean up the bottom side around the soft areas before remolding. By the way, I burned up one dremel tool in the process. I used cut pieces of the corners of a tuberware container to initially mold back the bottom shape for the weldments by securing the pieces with the keel bolts while packed with wet (resin) cloth and then used a large syringe to inject more resin.
If you need any advice or just to talk through it, feel free to call, 985-479-4505.
I am now facing having to cut a large portion of my liner out to replace the wooden stringers that run from bow to stern on either side of the the keel. You may want to inspect this for soft areas as well. If the wood is rotten and holding water like mine, it will eventually weaken all of the surrounding glass. Good luck, Chad



Boat Name:

Model/Year:

Hull No.

Hailing Port:
04/08/2004 7:01 PM Pacific Time

Thanks to all for your help, I feel better not being the only one. Paul did send me the shop drawings and I've crawled around in there enough to get an idea what I'm looking at. Since my problem is on the port side, I can get in through the seat locker and should not have to tear up the sole (which I wanted to avoid). Again thank you, wish me luck. The good news is replacing the thru hulls, backing the stantions bolts and safty rails, as well as repairing the hatch, rewiring the whole boat and making new crib boards should be downhill. Keep the advice comming, I can use it all!
Chad Vicknair
New Orleans, LA

Boat Name: Hope Floats

Model/Year: 1975

Hull No. CTYH66727M76L

Hailing Port: Lake Pontchartrain, New Orleans
04/08/2004 8:19 PM Pacific Time

You're on your way!! just a little sweat equity is all it takes. I had picked up my boat for free because the owner thought that it was beyond repair!
I opted to purchase the poly crib boards available through Catalina Direct, they work great and keep the cabin dry. I plan to use the lower board to mount my navigational gear when I catch a GPS and depth finder on sale.
Be careful with the cockpit drain, with just a little effort I was able to spin and pull the drain pipe right out of the glass. I epoxied it back in. I can just imagine if it had decided to give out while on the water.
I added scuppers to the back of the cockpit for two reasons. One, to ensure that the boat would never fill with water due to plugged cockpit drains again from the rain, and two, in case I take a wave over the stern.... the little 1/2 " drains take forever to drain. I just used 1 1/4 pvc pipe and expoxied in place flush with the cockpit floor. I used expoxy putty to shape the area and sanded smooth. On the outside, I purchased scupper cover from West Marine for about $4 a piece, they have the rubber flapper that lets water out but not in. Of course I left the 1/2 drains as well because our early model boats have cockpits that slope to the cabin.
On stantions, I added some stock ones.... 18" and little outward slope. I hated them, and found them to be more of a safety hazard than help. They were just the right height to effectively trip me, they were ergonomically horrible to try and bend over and hold, and required squeezing leg over leg to walk to the bow. Sooo... I went to modifying them. I purchased some 1" stainless tubing and some 3/4 as well and slipped the latter into the 1" tube (for strength). I cut pieces 25" long and using a tube bender added a 15 deg. bend at the base approx. 4" up. My lifelines are now truely lifelines, they allow safe passage to the bow and do not obstruct the side deck.
All lots of fun, learning what works and doesn't work for you keep you busy making mods all the time. Enjoy, Chad



Boat Name:

Model/Year:

Hull No.

Hailing Port:
08/12/2005 9:56 AM Pacific Time

I am looking at a boat with a similar problem, less than $1 K asking price. Otherwise the boat seems sound and in good condition. Does replacing these seem like a $1K problem, or much more?

I am willing to learn about "what makes the boat tick" and it seems like these repairs would do it, but if the repairs equal two or three thousand dollars worth of work, then the boat just simply isn't worth it. It is a 1974 model and it is BASIC, no extras at all. Not even a full set of sails.
George
Georgetown, SC

Boat Name: Blu Notes

Model/Year: C-22 1982

Hull No. 11184

Hailing Port: Georgetown, SC
09/25/2005 9:22 AM Pacific Time

I know of a 1977 Cat 22, with trailer and mast that you can get for a couple hundred dollars.

Anyone interested, email me.

[email protected]stream.net
 
 
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