Geoff Endris
Carmel, IN
Boat Name: Repose
Model/Year: 1989
Hull No. 14949
Hailing Port: Indianapolis, IN |
 05/09/2004 7:05 PM Pacific Time
My bunk boards are rotted through and need to be replaced. How do I go about bending the boards so they fit the trailer?
Thanks for your help. |
david martin
hutchinson island fl
Boat Name: barefoot gourmet
Model/Year: cat 22 1977
Hull No. 7942 (?)
Hailing Port: Hutchinsom Island Fl |
05/10/2004 5:06 AM Pacific Time
I just set the front and back supports then put the boat on the trailer and set the intermediate supports to the boat shape. I used two layers of pressure treated wood and did not fix them together until the boat weight was on . |
Dick King
Melbourne, FL
Boat Name: Twilight Zone
Model/Year: Sport/2005
Hull No. 15546
Hailing Port: Melbourne, FL |
05/10/2004 7:01 AM Pacific Time
Geoff - The information below is taken from a trailer article I wrote for the MAINSHEET in 1988. It was reprinted in the Catalina 22 Technical Manual, which is available on CD to members of the Catalina 22 National Association.
The shape of the bunks is determined by the height and lateral position of the bunk supports. My trailer had bunk supports that had holes through the top to bolt on the bunk. The way I mounted mine is as follows:
1. Remove the old bunk
.
2. Measure the holes in the bunk supports and get 3/8 inch stainless cap screws long enough to reach through the 2x6 and the bunk support plus, not less than, 3/4 inch. Get fender washers, nuts, and lock washers to fit each bolt.
3. Measure the distance from the forward edge of the bunk to the center of the forward support. Drill a hole in the new board in the same relative position as the one in the old bunk.
4. Countersink the hole with a wood bit the same diameter as the fender washer. Make the countersink only deep enough for the depth of the head of the bolt and fender washer.
5. Place the new bunk on the forward support and bolt it in place. Coat the bolt and hole liberally with a good sealant.
6. Have a helper position the new bunk over the aft bunk support
7. Force the center of the new bunk down to the center support and determine where the center hole is to be drilled. Try marking it with a pencil through the hole in the center bunk support.
8. Drill the center hole and countersink as above.
9. Position the new bunk on the aft support and press it down in the center support. Bolt it in place. If the hole is not lined up. Go back to steps 6 and 7.
10. Position the new bunk over the aft support again and drill and countersink the aft hole.
11. Bolt the bunk to the aft bunk support.
12. Fill the countersunk holes with fiberglass putty (Bondo)
.
13. Cover with a strip of your favorite kind of trailer carpet. Let go of some of your hard-earned money and spring for some boat trailer carpet. It won't rot like the remnants I beg from the carpet shop down the street.
That's the gist of it. .
Fair winds and smooth sailing.
|
Geoff Endris
Carmel, IN
Boat Name: Repose
Model/Year: 1989
Hull No. 14949
Hailing Port: Indianapolis, IN |
05/10/2004 8:09 PM Pacific Time
Thanks guys. Looks like a good Memorial Day project.
Geoff |
PHILIP & SHARON MERLIER
FELLSMERE, FLORIDA
Boat Name: SWIZZLE STICK
Model/Year: 1990 C22
Hull No.
Hailing Port: FELLSMERE, FLORIDA |
02/22/2006 11:33 PM Pacific Time
I am preparing to replace the 2x6 bunks that support the hull of my wing keel C22. The bunks appear to have a pretty good curve. When putting new bunks on, will straight, treated, 2x6s bend enough without cracking or do I have to soak them in water to soften them first?
Thanks for your input.
Philip & Sharon "Swizzle Stick" |
Al Gearing
Burleson, Texas
Boat Name: Torch of Freedom
Model/Year: C-22 '76
Hull No. 6448
Hailing Port: Arlington YC |
02/24/2006 8:31 AM Pacific Time
I think that they will bend just fine. I assume that you read tDick King's article above, that sounds great. I have one thing that you might consider, Gene Ferguson, #160, has some really great ideas, and one is to use an old hose for padding no the bunks. I am going to change mine to that because after doing a bottom job I found that the bottom under the bunks was extremely corroded/eaten/rough due to sitting on the carpeting and having the water stay in contact with the hull for extended periods. For what it's worth,
Al Ge |
Kent Overbeck
Signal Mountain, TN
Boat Name: Leap Frog & FrogZilla
Model/Year: '88 Wing keel / '69 swing
Hull No. 14647 / 185
Hailing Port: Chattanooga, TN |
02/24/2006 6:27 PM Pacific Time
Phillip, they will bend just fine. Choose lumber that has at least 6 growth rings per inch. The more the better. This will give you strength. Also, knots aren't that big a deal but pick your lumber so there are no large knots close to the bunk supports.
Kermit |
Dick Reynolds
Lebanon, Oregon
Boat Name: Catnip
Model/Year: Swing Keel / 1974
Hull No. 4570
Hailing Port: Newport, Oregon |
02/24/2006 7:43 PM Pacific Time
I couldn't find decent treated wood here in Oregon for petes sake so I picked through the pile of no.2 2X6,s to find as close to quarter sawn as I could. I laid the old bunks on top of the new and marked the holes. I replaced the center supports (Champion trailer sales ) . With the new center supports loose I put the new bunks on and used long bolts to line it all up. Looking at the angle, the frame was in line with the center support and the bunk so I used a spanish windless to pull the bunk down to the center support. It takes less time to do it than to tell about it. When I put the boat on it it will compress down so I can tighten the center support up. The only other thing is after the new bunks were drilled and ready to mount I put wood preservative on them. Some stuff with copper something or other in it. Old fire hose is supposed to be better than carpet. Check your local fire dept. |
