Blaine King
Collierville, Tennessee
Boat Name: Moon Glow
Model/Year: C-22 SWING KEEL / 1973
Hull No. 2157
Hailing Port: Paris & Pickwick Landing |
 03/02/2006 12:43 PM Pacific Time
Moon Glow has the original shroud/stay turnbuckles.. Those @$# plastic nuts, used to secure the ends are cracked! Questions: 1. What size - thread are they, 2. Where do I get LH & RH nuts, preferably stainless steel & 3. Using the new ss nuts, do I need split washers to snug?
I currently have all the original plastics and have to tape them after setting before each sail.. Add to that I trailor to each port (no slip) so there is a lot of hassle to setup and retune each time.
Responses welcom ;-0
Blaine
|
William Bell
Pt. Orange, FL
Boat Name: Phoenix
Model/Year: 1987 Catalina 22
Hull No. #13784
Hailing Port: Pt. Orange,FL |
03/03/2006 5:31 AM Pacific Time
My advise would be to replace the turnbuckles with the "open" style. You can then use scar pins to lock them in position. Of course you could always use cotter pins or ring clips. The problem with the closed turnbuckles are that you can't see the condition of the thread and any corrosion. CD sells them and I am sure there are other sources too. |
Thomas Lang
North Granby, CT
Boat Name: Puravida
Model/Year: C27/1981
Hull No.
Hailing Port: Noank, CT |
03/03/2006 6:08 AM Pacific Time
Blaine:
I would suggest that you go to the open turnbuckle as well. I replaced all my standing rigging and went to all open turnbuckles, and adjustment and maintenance is much easier. I also think they look better. I deal with a local company here in CT that manufactures SS items for marine and architectural use. Check out http://www.csjohnson.com/ for more information.
Tom |
Al Gearing
Burleson, Texas
Boat Name: Torch of Freedom
Model/Year: C-22 '76
Hull No. 6448
Hailing Port: Arlington YC |
03/03/2006 7:12 AM Pacific Time
West Marine has right and left hand 1/4-20 nuts for those turnbuckles, and I don't think it is absolutely neccessary to use split locks but I do use them. It takes few extra turns to tighten each time but I count the turns to loosen the lower forwards so that I can get back close to right tension without total retuning.
Also, you should use some anti-seize compound/grease that CD supplies and maybe WM also, it is a must if you keep the old ones. Right now I have both, since I haven't changed out the uppers and aft lowers yet.
Al Ge |
Dick King
Melbourne, FL
Boat Name: Twilight Zone
Model/Year: Sport/2005
Hull No. 15546
Hailing Port: Melbourne, FL |
03/03/2006 7:29 AM Pacific Time
Hi Blaine - Let me echo what others have said. You are way overdue for a whole set of new rigging, including turnbuckles. If you have a West Marine store near you, you can get everything you need and with help, actually do the work yourself, using their rigging bench. I thought I had a writeup on chipford.com on how to do it, but I can't find it right now.
By the way, SCAR pins are available here. http://www.apsltd.com/ Search the site for scar pins. The 1/16 inch work fine. You just have to shorten them slightly and trim off some of the velcro strap to allow a one inch PVC shroud protector to slip down over them. Since you trailer sail, I recommend you use them on the forward lowers and forestay. The uppers and aft lowers can be left unadjusted and pinned with cotter pins. (A good alternative is a short lengths of solid copper wire through the stud holes and wrapped once around the body of the turnbuckle.
Once you use scar pins, you will never go back to cotter pins again. |
Greg Baker
Charlotte, NC
Boat Name: Sea Sharp Minor
Model/Year: Catalina 22 - 1984 - Swing Keel
Hull No. 11823
Hailing Port: Lake Norman Sailing Club |
03/03/2006 7:30 AM Pacific Time
Blain,
This is a little off topic but you said you were concerned about the rigging time because you trailor your boat. I had the same problem so I bought the quick release hardware from CD (#D1844) for the forestay and both forward lower shrouds. When opened, they add about 3 inches to the shroud length so a release pin can be easily removed. I do not loosen the upper shrouds nor the aft lowers when raising or lowering the mast. Really speeds up the rigging / derigging time and I only need to tune the shrouds about once a year. I also made some oversize turnbuckle covers out of PVC tubing to fit over the quick release mechanisms. |
Al Gearing
Burleson, Texas
Boat Name: Torch of Freedom
Model/Year: C-22 '76
Hull No. 6448
Hailing Port: Arlington YC |
03/03/2006 8:37 AM Pacific Time
Oops, those are 1/4-28 nuts, not the 1/4-20 I said above.
Al Ge |
Blaine King
Collierville, Tennessee
Boat Name: Moon Glow
Model/Year: C-22 SWING KEEL / 1973
Hull No. 2157
Hailing Port: Paris & Pickwick Landing |
03/04/2006 8:51 PM Pacific Time
Thanx all!!
Dick, the Moon Glow standing rigging has been replaced many times over the past 30+years, and is currently 1/8 inch. Also, I have changed out ALL chain plates using a complete set of newer (larger diameter, shorter lengrh and has two screws) parts scavanged from a dead C-22. Add to this, stainless steel backing plates on all lower shroud chain plates. Finally, I had someone weld a special plate/eye for the bow forstay, used a turnbuckle and attahed to a new U bolt (removed original bow eye).
The only things left are the turnbuckles.. and they are in remarkably good shape, threads and all. I am now enlightened by the possibility of the replacements being the open type described in this thread. Oh, and I will be adding a split backstay eventually.
PS I have a new style mast, new mast step, new masthead, new spreaders & stainless steel brackets and halyard exit sheves (factory parts).. and internal halyards - all rope. All of which I installed, as when I received the replacement mast, it was only a "stick". The PO's hit a tree branch and killed the old mast.. I got this boat "mastless".
Blaine |
