Since new rigging stretches, replacing only one of a pair of shrouds will make it difficult to keep your rig in tune.

You should “pre flight” and “post flight” your rig before and after every sail. Every time you sail in more wind than you have sailed in previously with your new rigging, it must be re-tuned.

Since rigging fails inside of the end fittings where they cannot be inspected, prudence dictates that standing rigging be replaced every seven years for boats sailed in salt water, every ten years for those sailed in fresh water.

No, you can choose one of our Trim-2-fit kits instead. There were many unrecorded changes in dimensions, turnbuckle length and hardware used by Catalina. Each of these changes can effect the length of your shroud or stay.

If you are sending old rigging to be duplicated, tune your rig, then mark your turnbuckles per our “Standing Rigging Instructions” found below under “Technical Support”.

It's difficult to tune your rig perfectly straight. That's OK. We fabricate your new rigging by averaging the length of each pair of shrouds.

Your new standing rigging will be fabricated to match the overall pin to pin dimension (+-1/4”) with the new turnbuckle adjusted approximately 1/3 of the way into it total available travel.

New rigging wire will stretch each time you sail in more wind. Having the turnbuckle 1/3 into its available travel provides more adjustment to accommodate that stretch.

Yes. Many world cruisers use this type of fitting on both ends of their standing rigging. If anything happens en route to Tahiti, it can be repaired aboard without special tools. Production builders don't use them because it would add tens of thousands of dollars to their annual costs.

Maybe. The user installed end fittings are more expensive. But you’re only buying one per shroud. You also save the cost of shipping your old rigging and potentially hundreds of dollars in yard fees. If you avoid unstepping the mast or hiring a rigger you’ll save much more.

Use either a bypass style cutter designed for stainless or an appropriate cut-off wheel on a Dremel tool. Do not use a bolt cutter that drives a blade into an anvil. It will munch up the end of the wire terribly.

Maybe. The swaged stud at the bottom of the forestay must pass through the furler. This is possible with most CDI Flexible Furlers, Hood and Schaefer furlers. Some Harken furlers and the Schaefer SnapFurl are too small for the swaged stud to pass through. If you can pull your old forestay out of the top of the furler without cutting the wire, you will likely be able to install a complete replacement forestay in its place.

Use our Trim-2-Fit forestay. Pass the unfinished end through the furler before using two wrenches to install the second end.

A thrust washer is required above the stud. If the foil accidentally drops onto the stud, the thrust washer will prevent the rotating foil from resting on the top of the stud and potentially causing the stud to rotate.

Call Technical Support with:

• The diameter of the forestay
• The diameter of the stud’s thread.

Catalina never installed Harken furlers and we can’t know what a previous owner might have installed. We can only help if you provide the above information.